Journey to Hair Transformation...The Process

by Gloria A. Fort

In today's hustle and flow world we want everything right now, modern inventions like microwaves, fast food, fast cars and quick weight loss programs put us in a mindset to acquire things more quickly. However, when you apply this mindset to your hair care and want the latest and greatest quick weave, or glue-in, half wig, and quick bun - hair loss and scalp damange can set in just as quickly. Yet, consumers expect an equally rapid solution. Unfortunately, once you allow these types of techniques to invade your hair space, there are no quick soulutions.

I started a series of Journey2HairTransformation workshops in December 2008. I taught the impact of internal and external forces on hair loss. I highlighted body functions, diet and nutrition, and cleasing the digestive system. The process to Hair Transformation is not difficult, but it won't happen over night either.

It's almost simple. Basically you need to identify what your hair and scalp is lacking and what areas of treatment you may need. Once you start your journey there will be many things along the way you will learn and need to change to acheive a healthy head full of hair. But we all know change comes with a price.

Fortunately, the price is commitment and that's free....I have seen time after time where clients start out great, results are great and after a few months they are not encouraged enough to stay on track.

But our lifestyle for hair care needs to change completely. From little girls to adults, we all need to stop the ponytails and braids that are extremely tight, and to stop overproccessing little girls' hair with chemicals too early. Blow drying and pressing the hair too straight is not good for the little girls either. Stop buying the ticket that straight is the best, it is not, that's why so many black women have returned to the natural look they want their fullness back, and some do not want the harshness that a chemical will do to your scalp.

Once you come to a Trichologist listen and be patient, remember you have started a journey, allow the expert to teach and guide you down new avenues. A good Trichologist will consult with you about diet, stress, internal and external damage. I allow my clients to grow in the knowledge of techniques and stressful lifestyles that will hinder the process of hair growth. I encourage you today to make a effort to listen, and know that this is a process that may take 30,60 or 90 days to repair, keep your mind open to what the Trichologist has to offer and let the journey to Hair Transformation begin.

Hair Loss Plague in the African American Community

by Gloria A. Fort

This article is very personal and tragic to me. As as stylist for 16 years, I have never seen as much hair loss and bad scalp conditions in my entire career. Shocked and dismayed it drove me to get more educated in the area of Trichology, which is the study of hair loss and scalp disorders. The worst that I have seen lately is Follicular Degeneration combined with Centrifugal Cicatrical Alopecia. You may ask: "What is all this degeneration and centrifugal?!" It is perhaps the most common as well as the most challenging form of hair loss seen the the United States. It affects black women predominantly, and it can also attack black men.

Let's determine how you can identify and avoid traveling down this road of hair loss.

Follicular Degeneration is associated with the following:

(1) chemcial overprocessing

(2) excessive heat elements

(3) chronic tension or pulling of the hair

(4) genetics

(5) studies show that it comes basically from bad hair practices.

African American women have for so long bent the rules when it comes to chemicals , weaves, ponytails and braids. Black women contantly request bone straight relaxers, they sew in weave and leave it in for months, wear braids are too tight, employ techniques that go beyond the scalp and tensile strength of the hair shaft and scalp, all of these bad habits lead you down the path to Degeneration of the Follicular.

Once you have applied bad hair practices so long, slowly Follicular Degeneration will start to take effect. Normally, hair loss starts around the hairline and also in the back around the nape of your neck, traveling upward in a V formation. What really happens is the hair follicles become damaged or destroyed and then inflammation occurs, then scar tissue is produced.

Next, the hair stops growing, because the scarring completely detroys the folllicule. This is a devastating condition for anyone, it affects your self esteem, social interactions, and other close relationships. I personally see this every day in my salon, Follicular Degeneration attacks in stages, and will cause permanent hair loss if not treated early.

Take inventory of your hair care practices. Is it really worth it? I am not saying you can't ever try a new style, what I am saying is think about the risk associated with abandoning healthy practices for your hair. Stop the overprocessing, the tight braids and the stressful styling techniques. People ask me every day: "Why are so many black women going natural?

The answer is chemicals have destroyed their beautiful manes, and they would like to have the control back, and the fullness is an extra bonus. Please consider the next time you want something different or a style that may require a lot of tension. Ask an expert on Hair Care what can you can do to avoid this dreadful type of hair loss and scalp condition. I plead with you, don't become a victim of Follicular Degeneration, communicate, research and check it out before you try it anything new. It takes only a few minutes to assure you that your next hairstyle will not be one you regret.

Relaxed, Texturized or Natural?

Hair styles are as varied as our personalities. Women choose to wear their hair in a vast array of styles. And in the black community chemicals open the door to countless opportunities. So if you've ever asked yourself: Should I relax, texturize or go natural? Keep reading. I'll briefly explain the difference and details of each decision.

Relaxed

Everyone loves the awesome benefits of wearing a relaxer. Chemically straightening the hair gives African American women versatility and body, allowing easier maintenance and faster growth. Hair cuts are also more defined. Let's explore the essentials of maintaining relaxed hair.

First, you must always have a professional apply the relaxer, which can be applied in intervals of 6 to 12 weeks depending on your hair's texture and density.

Fine hair should be relaxed every 8 to 12 weeks, this will help keep elasticity, one of hair's most important properties. Medium fine hair can be relaxed every 8 to 10 weeks and coarse hair every 6 to 8 weeks. Do not allow stylists to over process your hair, or make it "bone straight," that just weakens the hair.

Timing should take place as soon as the chemical is applied. Fine hair takes 10 to 12 minutes, medium fine hair takes 12 to 18 minutes and coarse hair takes 18 to 20 minutes. Never allow more time for the relaxer to process, or the hair will become dry, limp, brittle and snap very easily. A problem in many black hair salons is that stylists are not identifying the clients' true textures. Without doing so it's impossible to determine the correct technique for processing. Hair is very individual so salons that use the same procedure for each client, are not giving you the personalized care your hair deserves.

Texturized

Texturizers first became popular as a way to manage short hair cuts and for men to change the look of their hair. Texturizing produces a smooth, wavy look. However, the truth of the matter is, the process is exactly like relaxing process, but the processing time is shortened. Texturizers are great since they provide a much fuller mane, more body and less breakage. Just be aware that using this technique can cause some hair types to revert back to natural. For instance, if you have a tight, dry curl pattern, the professional stylists must monitor your hair carefully. It is difficult to work products into this type of hair. I suggest texturizers for young girls up to age 14 or 15, they are also good alternatives for women with fine hair or those who like to wear color. Since it's not as intense as a relaxer, dyed hair isn't overwhelmed with processes and fine hair maintains more body. Texturizers can be applied eery 8 to 12 weeks depending on hair texture and density. Remember to always allow a professional to apply chemicals Natural Scarred by the abundance of improper salon techniques, many women are reverting back to their beautiful natural hair. It is stronger, but it requires a lot of work. If you want to go natural, I suggest you keep your hair moisturized with extremely good products, because this hair type soaks up products. Talk with a hair care professional that can give you a good consultation, direction, products and styles. There are so many textures in the black culture ranging from loose curls to tight curls, dry, fine or spongy. So, always seek professional input to determine the best regimine for your hair type. No matter which style you use remember maintenance is key. If you wear a relaxer, try not to traumatize the hair by frequently varying styles. For instance, never get a relaxer, then switch to braids. In the case of texturizers, you should also be consistent with styling techniques. As for natural hair, it is a lot of work, but if you want it, just stick with it. You'll boast a fuller, stronger mane as a result. Whatever your style is, know that proper hair care is key to healthy tresses.

The Benefits of Trichology

by Gloria Fort

The word “Tricology” may sound like an obscure biological term, but it’s really something that is gaining more attention and prominence in the African American community. Tricology is the branch of medicine that deals with the scientific study of hair and scalp health. Trichologists are trained to treat hair loss and scalp disorders. Trichology is a growing business, because clients are loosing their hair and scalp issues are at an all time high.

If you are experiencing any of the following symptoms, it may be time to seek the services of a Tricologist: (1) Have you experienced a sudden amount of hair loss? (2) Is the hair loss in a concentrated area or more general and all over? (3) Do you have redness or severe itching? (4) Is your hair professionally relaxed or colored? (5) Did you loose hair after surgery or pregnancy? (6) Are you on any medications? (7) Do have a habit of pulling your hair or rubbing in your scalp? (8) Do you have a family history of hair loss? (9) Do you prefer a bone straight relaxer (which is basically over processing)? (10) Is your scalp dry, itchy, flaky or sore to touch? If you answered yes to 3 or more questions, then you need to see a Trichologist.

The first time you meet with a Tricologist, be prepared for a complete consultation. Expect to fill out paperwork, concerning health and hair habits and you’ll possibly undergo PH testing and digital scope analysis. Once the evaluation is done, the Trichologist will explain the type of treatment you’ll need for your hair loss or scalp disorder. Trichologists will also explain the importance of a good balanced diet, and the harmony of the body functions - which are closely connected to healthy hair and scalp. It is very important that you understand the body systems and how they work together.

Trichologists will start you on an appointment pattern and they will keep records of your progress to restore your hair or scalp. Be patient, and do what is advised, this is a process and it takes time to journey down the road to recovery.

If you are seeing a Trichologist who is not your regular stylist, let your stylist know all about your treatments so you can avoid conflicting procedures. Remember that in spite of hair problems you can still get a great cut, stylish up do, relaxer or highlights. But healthy hair is not created by a style, it is cultivated by using proper shampoos and treatments on your hair and scalp that can correct your needs. So although Tricology may be new to your vernacular, it’s becoming more and more necessary. Tricologists are producing a higher standard of work when it comes to hair and scalp problems. This growing profession will enlighten consumers with treatments and education to restore healthy hair.

How to Have a Wonderful Salon Experience

by Gloria A. Fort

No one wants to pay for an unsatisfactory service, especially when the service affects your personal appearance. Your salon experience should be one that is uplifting, warm, conversational, educational, and most of all satisfying. The goal of your stylist is to capture the image you are looking for. I’ll give you some tips for making your salon experience wonderful.

It all starts with a consultation, which is the key to achieving magnificent service. Meeting with the prospective stylists gives them a chance to evaluate your mane and it gives you the opportunity to ask pertinent questions, feel out the salon, and address concerns about your hair. You can then make a confident choice based on the response and information you receive during the consultation.

In the same way a doctor needs to examine you before starting treatment for your body, it’s essential for a stylist evaluate your hair before providing services. A good personal consultation should include the following: questions about your previous salon experience, an examination of your scalp and inquiries about your hair care history, a strand test, and time for you to express your likes and dislikes, i.e. gel, spritz, weave. Don’t be afraid to ask about the average length of service. If you dread spending an entire day at the salon, that’s something you should check out before settling on a salon. Make sure the business is clean and sanitary as well. Once everything is discussed, you and the stylist can proceed with the service.

A good salon will have a wide variety products. There should be multiple types of shampoos, conditioners, scalp ointments, and other treatments to treat the various states of hair damage (over processed, dry, brittle, limp). And each trip to the shampoo bowl should have three rounds. The first lather should be an organic cleanse shampoo, this shampoo will cleanse the hair gently, remove oils and hairspray, etc. Next, the stylist should use a moisturizing shampoo, this shampoo will restore moisture that may be lost while during the organic cleanse shampoo. Finally, the third lather should be a detangling conditioning shampoo, this shampoo will do just what it says it will do - detangle and condition, making the hair easy to comb.

The stylist should now make sure you receive the conditioner that best fits your needs. It should be customized for your hair whether it’s normal, dry, brittle, limp or weak. Dry hair requires a deep penetrating moisturizing conditioner; weak and limp hair needs a reconstructor that contains protein; normal hair should receive a conditioner with moisture and a protein combined.

If you have scalp issues the stylist should give you a scalp treatment, or a Scalp Facial. Scalp treatments are medicated shampoos and conditioners that help eliminate dry flakes, itchy scalp, redness and sores. Scalp facials exfoliate and remove dead skin cells from the epidermis of the scalp and are normally done a week after a relaxer service, because clients tend to experience some irritation from the relaxer.

Once you have had your shampoo and conditioner, the stylist should prepare you for the finish, which can be a awesome haircut, roller set, spiral set or roller wrap. Then after you are styled the stylist should explain to you how to maintain your new hairstyle. A good maintenance routine includes: using a wide-tooth comb and silk or satin scarf to wrap at night and applying a light hairdressing creme to condition the hair while you sleep. And if you are going to shampoo at home, your stylist should recommend what products to use.

You want to really love your salon visit, so remember to seek real solutions for your hair needs. Styling is always secondary to hair care. Make sure you stick with a stylist, who continues to seek education in the field, keeps up with the trends in hair care and styling, and brings change to the salon with new products, and equipment.

Combatting Dry, Brittle Hair

by Gloria A. Fort

Dryness, breakage and hair loss have always been acceptable issues in the African American salon. Why is this the norm? It seems, stylists are content to just treat these symptoms, when they should be preventing them from happening.

And the causes of damaged hair are all preventable. Each of the following can be harmful: improper relaxer application, color services that are too harsh for relaxed hair; exposure to humidity, heat elements, air conditioning; wearing rubber bands, pony tails, and wigs; using round brushes and alkaline products. These factors cause external damage to the hair shaft that lead to dry, brittle strands.

Healthy, flowing hair is influenced by the physical structure of the hair strand which has three layers. The cuticle is the outermost layer and its main function is to protect the second layer or cortex. This cortex is the most important layer since it’s where the strength and elasticity form. The medulla is the innermost layer and it has no function.

With a clear picture of hair’s structure in mind, it’s easier to understand how dryness and breakage occurs. When relaxers, highlights, blow drying and other techniques are done improperly they cause the cuticle layer to peel away. Once this protective outer layer is ruptured, the cortex is exposed and the hair becomes porous. This means it can no longer absorb and hold liquids, leading to perpetual dryness. As soon as the hair loses the ability to stay moisturized, it’s weakened and breaks very easily. Educated stylists know that the cuticle should always be smooth and in a flat position and will not employ techniques that can damage that outer layer.

Educated consumers should seek stylists who practice healthy hair. The objective to great hair is to avoid, at all costs, your hair becoming porous. Get to know your hair better by asking experts for advice before applying chemicals on your own. Start your hair on a healthy maintenance system, keep records of your relaxer services and do not allow stylists to over process your hair.

Know that relaxers should stay on no longer than 18 minutes and a minimum of 12 to 15. Anything more than 18 minutes is weakening your hair. Always use organic cleansing shampoos, a moisturizing shampoo and a detangling shampoo. Followup with a moisture protein conditioner and find a stylist who specializes in healthy hair.