Dryness, breakage and hair loss have always been acceptable issues in the African American salon. Why is this the norm? It seems, stylists are content to just treat these symptoms, when they should be preventing them from happening.
And the causes of damaged hair are all preventable. Each of the following can be harmful: improper relaxer application, color services that are too harsh for relaxed hair; exposure to humidity, heat elements, air conditioning; wearing rubber bands, pony tails, and wigs; using round brushes and alkaline products. These factors cause external damage to the hair shaft that lead to dry, brittle strands.
Healthy, flowing hair is influenced by the physical structure of the hair strand which has three layers. The cuticle is the outermost layer and its main function is to protect the second layer or cortex. This cortex is the most important layer since it’s where the strength and elasticity form. The medulla is the innermost layer and it has no function.
With a clear picture of hair’s structure in mind, it’s easier to understand how dryness and breakage occurs. When relaxers, highlights, blow drying and other techniques are done improperly they cause the cuticle layer to peel away. Once this protective outer layer is ruptured, the cortex is exposed and the hair becomes porous. This means it can no longer absorb and hold liquids, leading to perpetual dryness. As soon as the hair loses the ability to stay moisturized, it’s weakened and breaks very easily. Educated stylists know that the cuticle should always be smooth and in a flat position and will not employ techniques that can damage that outer layer.
Educated consumers should seek stylists who practice healthy hair. The objective to great hair is to avoid, at all costs, your hair becoming porous. Get to know your hair better by asking experts for advice before applying chemicals on your own. Start your hair on a healthy maintenance system, keep records of your relaxer services and do not allow stylists to over process your hair.
Know that relaxers should stay on no longer than 18 minutes and a minimum of 12 to 15. Anything more than 18 minutes is weakening your hair. Always use organic cleansing shampoos, a moisturizing shampoo and a detangling shampoo. Followup with a moisture protein conditioner and find a stylist who specializes in healthy hair.
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